Hi, I have 2 minature apple trees 1 minature pear tree and a potted blueberry brush, they are all 2 year old, can you please tell me when I have to prune them and by how much, I would be grateful for your advise, many thanks, Susan
Anne's response:
Fruit trees are usually pruned in late January and early February in the Carolinas. Most fruit trees do not need much pruning until they are 3 years old. You remove dead wood, limbs that corss and rub another limb. The formal pruning for good fruit production begins their fourth or fifth year. A blueberry planted in a pot is probably a miniature bush so the only pruning needed is to remove dead growth and thin spindly, weak branches. It will need to be repotted every other year to allow th roots to develop. The North CArolina Cooperative Extension Service has a very good brochure on Home Fruit Orchards that provides pruning diagrams, fertilizer recommendations and spraying to control insects and diseases.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Can I Move Camellias Now?
Thanks for providing Raleigh with such valuable gardening insight. I think I speak for a lot of people in saying the advice is much appreciated! I just purchased a couple of holly bushes in containers to go on either edge of the house. I'll need to move a couple of camelia bushes first. Can I move the camelias now, or should I wait until later in the winter? A single flower just bloomed this morning on one the camelias, by the way.
Joe
Anne's response:
Camellias can be moved at this time of year. They do bloom from September to March so moving the plants usually means you lose the blooms for one season. My preferred method of moving them has always been to root prune around the edge of the rootball in the late fall, then remove the plant in December. If the plant is not too large you can dig it now and replant. Water the plant well, mulch the ground around the plant with 3 inches of ground leaves, pine bark or pine straw. If we do not have enough rain to keep the ground moist you will have to water it during the winter to provide moisture for new roots to grow. The mulch layer should keep the ground from freezing in our climate. I also remove some of the bloom buds when I move my plants so the plant uses its energy to grow roots.
Joe
Anne's response:
Camellias can be moved at this time of year. They do bloom from September to March so moving the plants usually means you lose the blooms for one season. My preferred method of moving them has always been to root prune around the edge of the rootball in the late fall, then remove the plant in December. If the plant is not too large you can dig it now and replant. Water the plant well, mulch the ground around the plant with 3 inches of ground leaves, pine bark or pine straw. If we do not have enough rain to keep the ground moist you will have to water it during the winter to provide moisture for new roots to grow. The mulch layer should keep the ground from freezing in our climate. I also remove some of the bloom buds when I move my plants so the plant uses its energy to grow roots.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Propogating Corn Plants
I have a corn plant that has grown to the ceiling. It is in very good health and has three small shoots growing around the bottom. I would like to cut the top out but I'm not sure how I should do this. Do you have any suggestions?
-- Tracy
Anne's Response:
Some people like to propagate the corn plant by making a small cut at a growth ring below the tuft of top leaves, wrap the area around the growth ring with a piece of damp spagnum moss and cover the moss with a clear plastic. You seal the top and lower edge of the plastic with tape to provide a moist environment. When you see roots begin to form you cut the stalk below the plastic and pot up the new plant. You can then cut the tall stalk to the base and leave the three neww shotts to make a plant.Sometimes you can cut the main trunk to the desired height; make the cut just above a growth ring and the plant will put out a new growth. The trunk will not be perfectly straight above the cut because the new growth will come out to the side of the stem.
-- Tracy
Anne's Response:
Some people like to propagate the corn plant by making a small cut at a growth ring below the tuft of top leaves, wrap the area around the growth ring with a piece of damp spagnum moss and cover the moss with a clear plastic. You seal the top and lower edge of the plastic with tape to provide a moist environment. When you see roots begin to form you cut the stalk below the plastic and pot up the new plant. You can then cut the tall stalk to the base and leave the three neww shotts to make a plant.Sometimes you can cut the main trunk to the desired height; make the cut just above a growth ring and the plant will put out a new growth. The trunk will not be perfectly straight above the cut because the new growth will come out to the side of the stem.
Best Time to Transplant?
My mother has several small to about 4 ft. crepe myrtles that have started near older plants. I would like to transplant these smaller plants along the drive and around my newly constructed house. First, when is the best time of year to transplant them. Second, how do I go about it to best insure the transplant works and last, when is the best time of year to thin out a crepe myrtle?
-- Vickie
Anne's Response:
Prune and thin out crepe myrtles before they begin to put out new spring growth in April. The small crepe myrtles may be root suckers from the parent plant or they may be seedlings. Rook suckers will be identical to the parent plant; you can gently remove soil until you find the root system of the plant you want to move to determine whether it is a separate plant grown from seed or a plant that has sprouted from a damaged root of the parent plant. If the plants are seedlings you have no idea what color they will be or the ultimate size of the plant. In either case the plants can be moved in January or February.
-- Vickie
Anne's Response:
Prune and thin out crepe myrtles before they begin to put out new spring growth in April. The small crepe myrtles may be root suckers from the parent plant or they may be seedlings. Rook suckers will be identical to the parent plant; you can gently remove soil until you find the root system of the plant you want to move to determine whether it is a separate plant grown from seed or a plant that has sprouted from a damaged root of the parent plant. If the plants are seedlings you have no idea what color they will be or the ultimate size of the plant. In either case the plants can be moved in January or February.
What is this vine?
Monday, October 20, 2008
Tall Tomato Plants
My 11yr. old grandson planted several kinds of tomato plants this year and they have all grown quite tall and produced many tomatoes. His Red Beefsteak tomato plant is between 8 and 9 feet tall. (This was his first year planting tomatoes.) He was wondering if this was normal or was this some type of record in NC.
-- Andrea (and Kaleel)
Anne's response:
Congratulations to Kaleel on growing such healthy tomato plants; I hope they tasted good. I can’t find the record height of tomato plants but there are pictures of plants as tall as two story houses in some magazine articles. The tomatoes are being picked from the top of a tall stepladder.
-- Andrea (and Kaleel)
Anne's response:
Congratulations to Kaleel on growing such healthy tomato plants; I hope they tasted good. I can’t find the record height of tomato plants but there are pictures of plants as tall as two story houses in some magazine articles. The tomatoes are being picked from the top of a tall stepladder.
Identify This Flower
Please help me identify this flower. It grows on a vine, and it has long green beans. Three pictures are attached with blooms at various stages.
-- Cynthia
Anne's repsonse:
The flowers and pods do look like a legume but I am not sure which ornamental bean it might be. It is similar to Dolichos Lablab or hyacinth bean. It is an annual vine with similar blooms to your photograph but the bean pods are usually purple.
Pests Eating Loropetalums Leaves
I planted some loropetalums this past spring. They did well most of the summer. I have recently noticed that something is eating the leaves from the sides of the leaf. I had heard these plants were pretty disease resistant. Any thoughts on what this might be? I don’t want to lose these plants.
-- Kristain
Anne's Response:
The plants really are quite disease resistant but there are several insects that eat the leaves. Beetles and caterpillars both start eating leaves from the sides of the leaves and the leaves do get disfigured but the plants will not be killed by an occasional visit from visiting insects.
-- Kristain
Anne's Response:
The plants really are quite disease resistant but there are several insects that eat the leaves. Beetles and caterpillars both start eating leaves from the sides of the leaves and the leaves do get disfigured but the plants will not be killed by an occasional visit from visiting insects.
Best Grass Seed for Shady Lawn
Our lawn in Raleigh is pretty much total shade. We would love to have your advice on the best grass seed to use. We are avid listeners to you show!
-- Connie
Anne's Response
The lawn that best tolerates shade is a mixture of fescue and bluegrass but with full shade and competition from tree roots you will never have a lush green lawn.
-- Connie
Anne's Response
The lawn that best tolerates shade is a mixture of fescue and bluegrass but with full shade and competition from tree roots you will never have a lush green lawn.
Staghorn Fern Clippings
I have a Staghorn Fern that I received as a clipping from a neighbor about 12 years ago. A friend is wanting a clipping from it, but I have only done it once about 7 years ago. What is the correct way of removing a clipping from the fern and attaching it to a board or a basket with moss? The one time I did it, I grabed some of the leaves close to the base of the fern and very carefully pulled them loose. However this time I think I may need to cut them from the ferns base.
--Rock Roll
Anne's Response:
Use a sharp knife to cut two or three stems and their attached roots from the base of the fern. You need as much of the root as you can safely remove. Allow the roots of the cutting to sit in water for a few minutes to be sure the cutting is moist. Soak the mounting moss in water and then wrap the moist moss around the roots of the cutting. Attach it to the container or mount with string or wire. The new cutting needs to be kept out of direct sun and it needs to be misted until new roots develop.
--Rock Roll
Anne's Response:
Use a sharp knife to cut two or three stems and their attached roots from the base of the fern. You need as much of the root as you can safely remove. Allow the roots of the cutting to sit in water for a few minutes to be sure the cutting is moist. Soak the mounting moss in water and then wrap the moist moss around the roots of the cutting. Attach it to the container or mount with string or wire. The new cutting needs to be kept out of direct sun and it needs to be misted until new roots develop.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
What Kind of Flower is This?

I listen to your show most Saturday mornings and I have recently come across a flower that I don't know what it is. I found this in a wooded area between my drive and a field. The flower with stem is approx. 10 inches tall, it has no leaves near the ground that I can tell. It is a spiral arrangement of small white flowers with green in the center area. If you can identify this please reply and let me know, if not I would appreciate a response anyway.
-- Ken
Anne’s Response:
That is a lovely photograph of Spiranthes gracilis, commonly known as Slender Ladies’ Tresses. It is a wildflower found in dry to moist fields, meadows and sandy hardwood forests of the North Carolina mountains and Piedmont regions. The leaves come out in early April, then the bloom spike starts to develop. The leaves usually die and disappear before we notice the bloom in August or September.
Help With Hydrangeas
Our blue, white and pink hydrangea bushes all turned to a light green color and have remained green throughout the summer. What would cause the colors to change? We have also had very poor success with the roses the last two years. They bloom early and the all the leaves fall off leaving just the flower. After the leaves fall then the newest buds never open. They seem to be starving for something but we cannot figure out what is lacking. Can you help?
-- James, Fayetteville
Anne’s Response:
Your hydrangeas are growing just as they are supposed to. The plant blooms its original color (blue, white or pink) then instead of having the flower turn brown and fall off it turns green and remains on the plant until frost turns it brown in the fall. That is one of the joys of the plant - a bloom form that remains attractive on the plant for a very long time. The problem with your roses is harder to diagnose. In most cases the leaf drop comes from leaves that have been affected with Black Spot fungus. The leaves get spotted, turn yellow and fall off. It is quite near the end of the rose season this year and there is not enough time to control Black Spot and produce a set growth of foliage and bloom before the first frost. Clean up all the dropped foliage and dispose of it. After the first frost spray the ground around the plants with a Lime-Sulfur spray to control any fungus spores that may be on the ground. In December spray the plants with the same product. Next spring start a fertilizer and disease control program. Many gardeners with just a few rose plants have found the Bayer 3 in One or All in One product a safe, easy way to fertilize the plants, and protect them from diseases and insects. The chemical is mixed with water in a watering can and the product is poured on the ground around the base of the bush, being careful not to get the chemical on the foliage of the plants.
-- James, Fayetteville
Anne’s Response:
Your hydrangeas are growing just as they are supposed to. The plant blooms its original color (blue, white or pink) then instead of having the flower turn brown and fall off it turns green and remains on the plant until frost turns it brown in the fall. That is one of the joys of the plant - a bloom form that remains attractive on the plant for a very long time. The problem with your roses is harder to diagnose. In most cases the leaf drop comes from leaves that have been affected with Black Spot fungus. The leaves get spotted, turn yellow and fall off. It is quite near the end of the rose season this year and there is not enough time to control Black Spot and produce a set growth of foliage and bloom before the first frost. Clean up all the dropped foliage and dispose of it. After the first frost spray the ground around the plants with a Lime-Sulfur spray to control any fungus spores that may be on the ground. In December spray the plants with the same product. Next spring start a fertilizer and disease control program. Many gardeners with just a few rose plants have found the Bayer 3 in One or All in One product a safe, easy way to fertilize the plants, and protect them from diseases and insects. The chemical is mixed with water in a watering can and the product is poured on the ground around the base of the bush, being careful not to get the chemical on the foliage of the plants.
Milky Substance on Vines
I have some well-established, apparently healthy scuppernong and muscadine vines. On some of the vines, there is a milky white, sticky, gooey substance. The grapes seem fine and I just wash the gooey stuff off if it's not too much. I wonder if you can tell me what this substance is and how to get rid of it, if necessary.
-- Kemie
Anne’s Response:
I don't find a reference to such a problem in the material I have at the house and it is not one I have seen on the scuppernong vines I visit regularly. I suggest you contact your local co-operative extension office for an answer. Check the government listings in your local telephone book for a phone number.
-- Kemie
Anne’s Response:
I don't find a reference to such a problem in the material I have at the house and it is not one I have seen on the scuppernong vines I visit regularly. I suggest you contact your local co-operative extension office for an answer. Check the government listings in your local telephone book for a phone number.
Labels:
clapp,
garden,
muscadine,
scuppernong,
vines
Calla Lillies Won't Bloom
Why are my calla lillies not blooming? They are 3 feet tall but have no flowers.
-- Ann
Anne’s Response:
Calla lillies need sun, not too much nitrogen fertilizer and a rich loamy soil. Bulbs that are planted too deeply do not bloom as well. The bulb is planted no deeper than three times its height in the ground. They need a protective mulch in the fall to reduce the danger of cold damage. Some callas are not completely hardy in this area of North Carolina so yours may be able to have survival of foliage but not the bloom.
-- Ann
Anne’s Response:
Calla lillies need sun, not too much nitrogen fertilizer and a rich loamy soil. Bulbs that are planted too deeply do not bloom as well. The bulb is planted no deeper than three times its height in the ground. They need a protective mulch in the fall to reduce the danger of cold damage. Some callas are not completely hardy in this area of North Carolina so yours may be able to have survival of foliage but not the bloom.
Reseeding a Damaged Lawn
I live in Charlotte, NC, and have the typical lawn damage sustained from the recent drought. Due to some health problems we were not able to overseed year before last as well, so my lawn is mostly crab grass. I have been putting down lime over the previous month and plugging the yard about every two weeks to improve conditions for growth. Would I be better off to "Round Up" the entire small yard before overseeding? Would it be a mistake to till up the yard and bring in a small load of topsoil or compost? Is it too early to do this or should I wait till the end of September?
-- B. Long
Anne’s Response:
With the problems you have had with weeds I suggest you use Roundup as quickly as possible to kill the weeds and existing grass. You can till the soil about 10 days after the spraying, rake out the dead weeds and grass and then re-seed the lawn. If you can find a good source of weed free compost you could add that at the time you till. In Piedmont North Carolina it is usually safe to reseed a fescue lawn until October 15.
-- B. Long
Anne’s Response:
With the problems you have had with weeds I suggest you use Roundup as quickly as possible to kill the weeds and existing grass. You can till the soil about 10 days after the spraying, rake out the dead weeds and grass and then re-seed the lawn. If you can find a good source of weed free compost you could add that at the time you till. In Piedmont North Carolina it is usually safe to reseed a fescue lawn until October 15.
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