I have a gardenia at my front window and have noticed sooty mold on the leaves. I inspected the leaves and found some flat looking greyish bugs that look kinda like scale and have globs of cotton on my leaves. I poked at one of the cotton balls and a dark round looking bug with an orange head was under the cotton. It kinda looked like he was feeding on the other flat looking bug but I couoldn't be for sure. The flat gray ones have spikes all around theyre body kinda like a swordfish's snout looks. I have tried an insecticide but I dont want to hurt my plant by spraying it again. What can I do?
David
Anne's response:
David,
Gardenias often have problems with insects such as scale and mealy bugs. One solution is to spray the plant in late March with a horticultural oil spray that smothers overwintering insects and their eggs. It is safe to use the sprays until temperatures get over 75 degrees. You spray the top and bottom of the leaves and the bark on the limbs and trunk. Horticultural oil is a product that is labeled as an organic insecticide and is usually permitted on products labeled as organically grown.
Monday, March 31, 2008
Pests in Chokecherry Trees
Anne,
I have several (four or five) large chokecherry trees that are infested with the Chokecherry Midge. The cherries are swollen and when broken open, reveal a worm and eggs. The chokecherries are ugly and unusable for jelly or syrups (that I particularly enjoy making).
My understanding is that the fly emerges in the spring, from the egg that winters over in the soil under the tree. It flies to the blossoms, attaching itself and turning into a worm that crawls into the cherry. It then feeds on the cherry, lays it's eggs there and dies. The ugly cherries drop to the ground and the cycle starts over.
Am I way off in the woods on this, or what? I can't find any recommended treatment to get rid of this problem, so I pruned one tree back drastically last fall and got rid of the branches loaded with infected cherries. I hope it grows back--it's a sorry sight. Now, spring is coming and I don't want to prune back every tree--I'd like to get some chokecherries again. I've asked a puzzled extension agent--no help there... This problem is new to these trees--two years ago, they were beautiful.
Thanks so much!
Deb
Anne's Response:
Deb,
Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) is grown commercially in Quebec and northern Ontario and prefers cold weather. The trick to breaking the cycle is to remove all the fruit that falls to the ground and get it off the property. Treat the soil under the tree with an insecticide that is labeled for ground dwelling insects. There are orchard sprays labeled for home use that can be used for insect control when fruit trees are blooming. A major problem with such sprays is that they also kill your pollinating insects. Some directions say to use the spray as the buds swell but before they open and then reapply immediately after pollination. Your insects probably came as visitors from a tree in a neighboring property – often miles away. It could also have been in the soil in the pot if the plants were purchased as potted trees rather than bare root ones.
I have several (four or five) large chokecherry trees that are infested with the Chokecherry Midge. The cherries are swollen and when broken open, reveal a worm and eggs. The chokecherries are ugly and unusable for jelly or syrups (that I particularly enjoy making).
My understanding is that the fly emerges in the spring, from the egg that winters over in the soil under the tree. It flies to the blossoms, attaching itself and turning into a worm that crawls into the cherry. It then feeds on the cherry, lays it's eggs there and dies. The ugly cherries drop to the ground and the cycle starts over.
Am I way off in the woods on this, or what? I can't find any recommended treatment to get rid of this problem, so I pruned one tree back drastically last fall and got rid of the branches loaded with infected cherries. I hope it grows back--it's a sorry sight. Now, spring is coming and I don't want to prune back every tree--I'd like to get some chokecherries again. I've asked a puzzled extension agent--no help there... This problem is new to these trees--two years ago, they were beautiful.
Thanks so much!
Deb
Anne's Response:
Deb,
Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) is grown commercially in Quebec and northern Ontario and prefers cold weather. The trick to breaking the cycle is to remove all the fruit that falls to the ground and get it off the property. Treat the soil under the tree with an insecticide that is labeled for ground dwelling insects. There are orchard sprays labeled for home use that can be used for insect control when fruit trees are blooming. A major problem with such sprays is that they also kill your pollinating insects. Some directions say to use the spray as the buds swell but before they open and then reapply immediately after pollination. Your insects probably came as visitors from a tree in a neighboring property – often miles away. It could also have been in the soil in the pot if the plants were purchased as potted trees rather than bare root ones.
Spacing a Nellie Stevens Hedge
I live in Raleigh, N.C. and plan of planting six 4' or 6' Nellie Stevens Hollys along a fence line. Can you tell me the spacing I need between each holly? Also spacing needed off the fence? Any suggestions or advice would be great.
Thanks,
Mike
Anne's Response:
Mike,
When planting a Nellie Stevens Hedge, remember that the mature plant will be about 10 feet in diameter. That means putting the plants no closer than 9 feet to each other and putting them 5 feet from the fence.
Thanks,
Mike
Anne's Response:
Mike,
When planting a Nellie Stevens Hedge, remember that the mature plant will be about 10 feet in diameter. That means putting the plants no closer than 9 feet to each other and putting them 5 feet from the fence.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Possible help for Crepe Myrtle
Last year I pruned two crepe myrtle trees in my yard. We had some warm weather and they began to bud… THEN, a hard frost came and they didn’t really bloom last year at all.. BUT, new growth was coming out at the base. Is there ANYTHING I can do for them now?? I’m afraid that I’ve killed them.
Thank you for any advice or suggestions.
Rosemary H.
Anne's Response:
Crepe Myrtles haven’t started budding out yet so hopefully the tree will have recovered. They like dry weather in the fall and they did get that. I try to cut off any suckers that come from the base of the plant because they do spoil the shape of the plant. Don’t use a nitrogen fertilizer on the plants because that usually promotes new foliage rather than blooms.
Thank you for any advice or suggestions.
Rosemary H.
Anne's Response:
Crepe Myrtles haven’t started budding out yet so hopefully the tree will have recovered. They like dry weather in the fall and they did get that. I try to cut off any suckers that come from the base of the plant because they do spoil the shape of the plant. Don’t use a nitrogen fertilizer on the plants because that usually promotes new foliage rather than blooms.
When to fertilize and which plants/bushes get acid-loving vs. "normal" basic?
Hi, Anne -- I think your show is great. I'm new to NC, having moved to Raleigh only three years ago from New Jersey.
One of the first things I did was to plant my favorite flowering plants. But now I'm unsure when to fertilize them. If you can recommend a good book on growing flowering shrubs in the Raleigh area, please suggest it.
If not, could you please tell me when to fertilize and whether to use acid-loving plant fertilizer or base-loving plant fertilizer:
• lonicera fragrantissima
• winter Daphne odora
• Korean spice viburnum
• Jasmine vine (blooms white)
• mock orange
• exbury azalea
• winter clematis (vine, now in bloom)
• Russian olive (elaeagnus?)
I guess the basic question is: do I fertilize them while they are in bloom??? Thank you, in advance, for the information --
A.R.
Anne's Response:
My favorite general gardening book for this area is the Southern Living Garden Book. There are several books that might help – look for books by Bob Polomsky (South Carolina Cooperative Extension), Toby Bost (formerly the extension agent in Durham county) and Pam Beck (local garden writer.)
The Exburry azalea hybrid will appreciate an fertilizer for acid loving plants but I have founf that the “organic fertilizers” formulated for blooming shrubs will work on all the plants you list. I prefer to add fertilizer just as the foliage starts to show in the spring. If the drought continues you may want to time your fertilizer applications with expected rainfall and reduce the amount that you apply.
One of the first things I did was to plant my favorite flowering plants. But now I'm unsure when to fertilize them. If you can recommend a good book on growing flowering shrubs in the Raleigh area, please suggest it.
If not, could you please tell me when to fertilize and whether to use acid-loving plant fertilizer or base-loving plant fertilizer:
• lonicera fragrantissima
• winter Daphne odora
• Korean spice viburnum
• Jasmine vine (blooms white)
• mock orange
• exbury azalea
• winter clematis (vine, now in bloom)
• Russian olive (elaeagnus?)
I guess the basic question is: do I fertilize them while they are in bloom??? Thank you, in advance, for the information --
A.R.
Anne's Response:
My favorite general gardening book for this area is the Southern Living Garden Book. There are several books that might help – look for books by Bob Polomsky (South Carolina Cooperative Extension), Toby Bost (formerly the extension agent in Durham county) and Pam Beck (local garden writer.)
The Exburry azalea hybrid will appreciate an fertilizer for acid loving plants but I have founf that the “organic fertilizers” formulated for blooming shrubs will work on all the plants you list. I prefer to add fertilizer just as the foliage starts to show in the spring. If the drought continues you may want to time your fertilizer applications with expected rainfall and reduce the amount that you apply.
Tulips
I was given some tulips bloomed in a pot. I was told that I could go ahead and plant these in my yard now and that later I could dry the bulbs and re plant them next year. Is this true? and how do I do this?
Will they still live if I plant them in the yard now? Is there anything else I can plant now. I guess I am late I should have planted bulbs back in the winter I guess didn't know that until now.... I would love to do some daffodils or something... but how can I plant those NOW or can I?
Thanks.
Anne's Response:
If you are growing tulips in the Raleigh area it really isn't worth the effort to plant bulbs that have been forced for indoor bloom. Our climate is so warm that we rarely get more than 2 or 3 years bloom out of most tulips. Most of the tulips you see in mass plantings in this area are bulbs that are planted in the late fall and treated like annuals.
Daffodils do come back reliably. The best time to get them in the ground in late October.
Will they still live if I plant them in the yard now? Is there anything else I can plant now. I guess I am late I should have planted bulbs back in the winter I guess didn't know that until now.... I would love to do some daffodils or something... but how can I plant those NOW or can I?
Thanks.
Anne's Response:
If you are growing tulips in the Raleigh area it really isn't worth the effort to plant bulbs that have been forced for indoor bloom. Our climate is so warm that we rarely get more than 2 or 3 years bloom out of most tulips. Most of the tulips you see in mass plantings in this area are bulbs that are planted in the late fall and treated like annuals.
Daffodils do come back reliably. The best time to get them in the ground in late October.
Weather
Good morning,
With the weather dipping below freezing tonight what should I do to protect my fruit trees and blueberries that are already in bloom, or will it not be enough to hurt them?
Thanks,
Paula G.
Anne's Response:
Your message did not reach me until Wednesday so I hope your plants are ok. The temperatures did not get cold enough to damage plants on Monday night. If freezing weather is predicted again you may want to cover the plants with a sheet or some other fabric covering. Don’t use plastic sheeting unless you remove it before the sun gets to the plants in the morning. The heat build-up under the plastic does as much damage as frost.
With the weather dipping below freezing tonight what should I do to protect my fruit trees and blueberries that are already in bloom, or will it not be enough to hurt them?
Thanks,
Paula G.
Anne's Response:
Your message did not reach me until Wednesday so I hope your plants are ok. The temperatures did not get cold enough to damage plants on Monday night. If freezing weather is predicted again you may want to cover the plants with a sheet or some other fabric covering. Don’t use plastic sheeting unless you remove it before the sun gets to the plants in the morning. The heat build-up under the plastic does as much damage as frost.
Flowering evergreens
We live in AZ and are removing a desert fern the messiest tree i have ever had i would like to plant a flowering evergreen that is is fast growing as we are in our late 70s.
Thank you soo much for your help.
Max
Anne's Response:
Growing conditions vary so much in Arizona that it is hard for me to recommend something for you. Most cooperative extension services have lists of plants that grow well in their area so I suggest you check you local telephone directory or go the Arizona Extension Service Website.
Thank you soo much for your help.
Max
Anne's Response:
Growing conditions vary so much in Arizona that it is hard for me to recommend something for you. Most cooperative extension services have lists of plants that grow well in their area so I suggest you check you local telephone directory or go the Arizona Extension Service Website.
Weeds
Hi Anne,
My yard this year has been taken over by all kinds of weeds. I had some landscaper come and spread weed killer, but it is not working. He is telling me that weed killer only works in a continuous 80 degree temperature. I can't seem to agree. I have never had all these weeds and it seems impossible that his weed killer is not working. I was outside this week watching him spreading and didn't notice the spray working. I told him the spray was not working. He then pressed harder. Should I select someone else.
Marie
Anne's Response:
If my landscaper told me weed killer didn’t work until temperatures got over 80 degrees I would find someone else to do the work. The labels on most products say the best temperature for applying them is when temperatures are over 55 and under 75.
My yard this year has been taken over by all kinds of weeds. I had some landscaper come and spread weed killer, but it is not working. He is telling me that weed killer only works in a continuous 80 degree temperature. I can't seem to agree. I have never had all these weeds and it seems impossible that his weed killer is not working. I was outside this week watching him spreading and didn't notice the spray working. I told him the spray was not working. He then pressed harder. Should I select someone else.
Marie
Anne's Response:
If my landscaper told me weed killer didn’t work until temperatures got over 80 degrees I would find someone else to do the work. The labels on most products say the best temperature for applying them is when temperatures are over 55 and under 75.
Indoor Peace Lilly
Dear Anne,
You answered a question for me years ago on WPTF about growing roses in a flowerbed of almost complete sand. Now I have another more detailed question. I have an indoor Peace Lilly that was given to me from my mother's funeral 4 years ago. I have managed to keep it living, which is a trick for me on it's own. It's grown to be HUGE, even through we have moved it to bigger pots two or three times.
1. Is it possible to split it into two or three plants? I would love to give part of it to my sister and reduce the size of it so that perhaps it will be come healthy again.
2. The ends (the last 1 to 1/2 inches) of most of the leaves are brown and dry. I water it, and perhaps over water it. At the first sign of sagging leaves, I water it well. I also supplement by watering with about 1 cup of water every other day. Once a week or once every two weeks, I add a couple of drops of plant food. Once the leaves turn completely brown or shrivel, I cut them out as close to the base as I can. Every 6 months or so, I trip out all the bad leaves completely, or it becomes a tangled ball of mess.
3. It never seems to bloom anymore, I would love to see it bloom again.
4. Now for my strangest question, do Peace Lillies "get old" and die?" I want to make sure I have this plant for as long as possible. Above all to my other questions and especially #1, I want to make sure I don't kill this plant.
I'll be happy to send you a photo of it's condition if you like.
I appreciate your time, I know this is a long email, this is a very important plant to me.
Sincerely,
Doug E.
Anne's Response:
I think it is time the peace lily was divided and repotted. Remove the plant from its pot and remove the soil from the roots. Find two or more segments of stems that have good root systems growing and break the plant apart. You may have to use clippers to cut the plant apart but they usually break without too much trouble. Repot each segment in a good quality potting soil in a pot that is no more than 3 times the width of the base of the plant piece. Water it well and leave in an area where there is good light but not direct sun for a couple of weeks until the plant recovers from its transplant shock. Fertilize the plant when new growth starts to form.
You may have been overwatering the plant – and that is easy to do when a plant is too crowded in the pot. Most plants exist quite well on once a week watering. Don’t let the water stay in the saucer under the pot for more than a couple of hours. Using fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen will reduce the blooming so that may have been your problem.
You answered a question for me years ago on WPTF about growing roses in a flowerbed of almost complete sand. Now I have another more detailed question. I have an indoor Peace Lilly that was given to me from my mother's funeral 4 years ago. I have managed to keep it living, which is a trick for me on it's own. It's grown to be HUGE, even through we have moved it to bigger pots two or three times.
1. Is it possible to split it into two or three plants? I would love to give part of it to my sister and reduce the size of it so that perhaps it will be come healthy again.
2. The ends (the last 1 to 1/2 inches) of most of the leaves are brown and dry. I water it, and perhaps over water it. At the first sign of sagging leaves, I water it well. I also supplement by watering with about 1 cup of water every other day. Once a week or once every two weeks, I add a couple of drops of plant food. Once the leaves turn completely brown or shrivel, I cut them out as close to the base as I can. Every 6 months or so, I trip out all the bad leaves completely, or it becomes a tangled ball of mess.
3. It never seems to bloom anymore, I would love to see it bloom again.
4. Now for my strangest question, do Peace Lillies "get old" and die?" I want to make sure I have this plant for as long as possible. Above all to my other questions and especially #1, I want to make sure I don't kill this plant.
I'll be happy to send you a photo of it's condition if you like.
I appreciate your time, I know this is a long email, this is a very important plant to me.
Sincerely,
Doug E.
Anne's Response:
I think it is time the peace lily was divided and repotted. Remove the plant from its pot and remove the soil from the roots. Find two or more segments of stems that have good root systems growing and break the plant apart. You may have to use clippers to cut the plant apart but they usually break without too much trouble. Repot each segment in a good quality potting soil in a pot that is no more than 3 times the width of the base of the plant piece. Water it well and leave in an area where there is good light but not direct sun for a couple of weeks until the plant recovers from its transplant shock. Fertilize the plant when new growth starts to form.
You may have been overwatering the plant – and that is easy to do when a plant is too crowded in the pot. Most plants exist quite well on once a week watering. Don’t let the water stay in the saucer under the pot for more than a couple of hours. Using fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen will reduce the blooming so that may have been your problem.
Fertilizing Green Giant Arborvitae Trees
Hello,
I saw a recent post (3/19) in which someone remarked that they had over-fertilized their green giants, but no amount was mentioned.
I lost two of mine late last year and I wonder if it is from the same cause.
What are the proper fertilizer, amount and time to fertilize these? Mine are about 4 ft tall.
Thanks and regards,
Jim
Anne's Response:
The amount of fertilizer you use depends on the brand of material you use and the amount of nitrogen. An 8-8-8 fertilizer contains 8% nitrogen, 8% phosphorus and 8% potassium. A 10-10-10 contains 10% of those ingredients so it will take less 10-10-10- to do the same job as an 8-8-8. Read the label very carefully and don’t apply more than the recommended amount. We also find that adding fertilizer when there is not adequate rainfall or irrigation water will cause plant damage.
I saw a recent post (3/19) in which someone remarked that they had over-fertilized their green giants, but no amount was mentioned.
I lost two of mine late last year and I wonder if it is from the same cause.
What are the proper fertilizer, amount and time to fertilize these? Mine are about 4 ft tall.
Thanks and regards,
Jim
Anne's Response:
The amount of fertilizer you use depends on the brand of material you use and the amount of nitrogen. An 8-8-8 fertilizer contains 8% nitrogen, 8% phosphorus and 8% potassium. A 10-10-10 contains 10% of those ingredients so it will take less 10-10-10- to do the same job as an 8-8-8. Read the label very carefully and don’t apply more than the recommended amount. We also find that adding fertilizer when there is not adequate rainfall or irrigation water will cause plant damage.
Tomato plants with yellow speckles and drying parts
Hello, Ann,
I am a teacher in Northern California (Fremont). The temperatures are ranging between 40 at night to low 60's in the afternoon. Our class garden is just starting up for this year. We have transplanted tomato plants into raised beds. This morning, I noticed that there were yellow spots on the leaves. When I touched the spots the leaf would flake off.
Can you tell me what it might be? What shall I do so my students have a good experience with their gardening project?
Thank you.
Mary W, Teacher
Anne's Response:
Tomatoes don't do well until soil temperatures stay above 50 degrees.
Sometimes you can use a plastic mulch on the ground to keep the soil warm ; you can use a light-weigh non-woven fabric row cover to keep the plants warm and keep the insects off until you have blooms and need the bees and other pollinators. The California Co-operative extension service usually has material on planting tomatoes in home gardens. Check their web site for additional information.
I am a teacher in Northern California (Fremont). The temperatures are ranging between 40 at night to low 60's in the afternoon. Our class garden is just starting up for this year. We have transplanted tomato plants into raised beds. This morning, I noticed that there were yellow spots on the leaves. When I touched the spots the leaf would flake off.
Can you tell me what it might be? What shall I do so my students have a good experience with their gardening project?
Thank you.
Mary W, Teacher
Anne's Response:
Tomatoes don't do well until soil temperatures stay above 50 degrees.
Sometimes you can use a plastic mulch on the ground to keep the soil warm ; you can use a light-weigh non-woven fabric row cover to keep the plants warm and keep the insects off until you have blooms and need the bees and other pollinators. The California Co-operative extension service usually has material on planting tomatoes in home gardens. Check their web site for additional information.
Leyland Cypress Fell
I have a 20’ 6-7 caliber Leyland that fell in my yard. This tree is in the middle of a row of Leylands that forms a screen around my pool in the backyard. I believe it fell in some heavy winds we had on March 8th and has been laying on the ground straddling my pool deck and pool cover. Half the root looks like it’s still in the ground but half may be out. The tree actually looks like it’s alive a surviving and I thought it was worth a try to save it by standing it up and anchoring it with stakes and perhaps the adjacent trees and fence. Please give me your opinion. I had a rep from a local reputable landscape company who did some major landscaping for me last year (3 tree transplants, etc.) come by and tell me that the survival rate on these is 30-40%. What do you think? Thanks.
Anne's Response:
I think the 40% survival rate is optimistic for a Leyland cypress especially as long as it has been out of the ground. If it were in my yard I would remove the plant and let the other plants fill in the space or plant a new plant.
Anne's Response:
I think the 40% survival rate is optimistic for a Leyland cypress especially as long as it has been out of the ground. If it were in my yard I would remove the plant and let the other plants fill in the space or plant a new plant.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Daffodils
Anne, Last year I cut the green foliage on all my daffodils back just after they quit blooming. This year I had very few blooms. After watching your show on daffodils I realized that was a mistake. My question is, have I damaged the bulb permanently or will it bloom normal next year if I let the foliage die down as you suggest?
Thanks,
James
Anne's Response:
Yes they will bloom next year if you allow the foliage to die back naturally this spring. In the fall, late October when a rain is expected, fertilize the bulbs with a fertilizer formulated for bulbs. I use Holland Bulb Booster. The fertilizer will work slowly into the ground and be available to the roots of the daffodils during the winter. You may add a second application of fertilizer when the foliage starts to pop out of the ground in January.
Thanks,
James
Anne's Response:
Yes they will bloom next year if you allow the foliage to die back naturally this spring. In the fall, late October when a rain is expected, fertilize the bulbs with a fertilizer formulated for bulbs. I use Holland Bulb Booster. The fertilizer will work slowly into the ground and be available to the roots of the daffodils during the winter. You may add a second application of fertilizer when the foliage starts to pop out of the ground in January.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Propagating nellie stevens
Dear Anne,
I am interested in propagating Nellie Stevens tree, I read an article that I can use cutting to propagate it. Can you please tell me how to do that and where to cut for the highest success rate?
Thank you very much!
Best regards,
How Y
Anne's Response:
The best success rate for Nellie Stevens is to take cuttings during the early fall on growth that has not completely hardened off. Make cuttings of 4 to 6 inches from the tips of stems for the best results. I filmed a segment on making cuttings from camellias that shows how you make cuttings. It should be available in the material from older shows.
I am interested in propagating Nellie Stevens tree, I read an article that I can use cutting to propagate it. Can you please tell me how to do that and where to cut for the highest success rate?
Thank you very much!
Best regards,
How Y
Anne's Response:
The best success rate for Nellie Stevens is to take cuttings during the early fall on growth that has not completely hardened off. Make cuttings of 4 to 6 inches from the tips of stems for the best results. I filmed a segment on making cuttings from camellias that shows how you make cuttings. It should be available in the material from older shows.
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